In yesterday’s Austin American-Statesman, Helen Anders reported on Gulf shrimpers and how they’re faring against competition from farmers and importers. She tells us that about 90% of the shrimp Americans eat is imported. But on South Padre Island, where her story takes place, the scampi, ceviche, and tacos all boast locally harvested shrimp.
Some people know summer squash all too well. Those yellow crook-necked specimens must be the most-shared product of home gardens when they’re in-season, though they’re never as easy to give away as tomatoes and berries. Zucchini is just another version of summer squash and its reputation has so soured over the years that it’s been left, in a Garrison Keillor story, at least, in a basinet at a neighbor’s door. The truly resourceful even grate it and slip it into baked goods for spongy effect. But the news is not all grim for summer squash. Varieties such as the patty pan (pictured), known also as scalloppini and cymling, have a shape that lends itself to stuffing. When harvested small and very tender-skinned, the oblong varieties have a pleasing texture the giant specimens lack. But believe it or not, Todd Duplechan looks for big ones when he shops at Boggy Creek Farm in Austin. Duplechan is the chef de cuisine at Trio, the restaurant in the Four Seasons, and he likes to make them into a sort of pasta by shaving them into thin strips with a mandoline, then cooking them in boiling water and seasoning. With 1,700 acres of squash growing in Texas — and thriving even in the summer’s hottest weeks — it’s worth getting creative when it comes to summer squash.
In the New York Times last week, Bina Venkataraman reported on growing interest in skyscraper farms — that’s farms located in skyscrapers (not farms that grow skyscrapers). At the website of the Vertical Farm Project, you can see what one such farm might look like and read about how the 80% of the world’s population that’s forecast to live in urban areas by 2050 could get very local food.
Kolache, pastries brought to Texas by eastern European immigrants, have been around these parts long enough to be considered a local delicacy in my book. Since the very first time my husband took me to his parents’ home near Houston, we’ve stopped on the way to sample the goods at Weikel’s (”We Gotcha Kolache”) in La Grange. There I’ve always had sweet flavors, poppy-seed being my all-time sweet favorite. But recently in Austin, I discovered the savory version the folks at Lone Star Kolaches on Lamar make. This one is filled with potato, egg, and cheese — it’s like the Czech take on a breakfast taco, a delicious melding of Texas cultures.
In case you missed it, Lee Nichols reported in the July 4 edition of the Austin Chronicle on our state’s microbreweries. It’s a comprehensive primer with background on seven Texas beer makers and a rundown of brewpubs, too.
Figs are here! I purchased a package of them from Marysol of Hands of the Earth farm on Saturday at the Austin Farmers’ Market downtown. “It’s a great fig year,” Marysol told me, meaning that her trees are bearing heavily. This is great news if you know figs, but an unofficial survey reveals that many folks don’t, so here’s a quick primer: They’re a Mediterranean fruit and conventional wisdom holds that they thrive stateside only in California - but we Texans know better. They buck convention in their form, too, since their skin is formed by the plant’s stem. They must be eaten only when fully ripe, a state recognizeable by the stem going limp and the skin getting dark and extemely soft. They’re delicate, figs, and must be handled gently and stored in the refrigerator after reaching this point of ripeness. Even there, they won’t keep long. So don’t delay in eating them raw, bite by bite while holding the stem in your fingers. Their subtle sweetness and jelly-like consistency goes great with goat cheese, and the two together, possibly with some caramelized onions or roasted garlic, would make a fabulous pizza topping. Combined with chunks of a dry Italian-style cheese and walnuts, figs contribute to an easy, Mediterranean dessert plate, too. Marysol’s suggestion? Split them in half and sauté them in butter and a bit of balsalmic vinegar, then pour the result over orange roughy.
In the June 23 edition of Chemical & Engineering News, associate editor and my good friend Rachel Petkewich reports on innovations in chemistry that are helping to understand and promote the healthfulness of foods. Our own Lone Star State shines front and center in her story, with coverage of maroon carrots and Texas grapefruits.
On June 18, the Houston Chronicle published a surprising article in which Peggy Grodinsky reported on the struggle of Texas catfish farmers. Apparently there’s much to be praised in local catfish that’s well-raised, but word is slow getting out. “Evokes the taste of almonds” is certainly not a phrase I’ve previously heard associated with catfish, but I’m interested in checking it out. Have you seen Texas catfish on any menus around the state?
And speaking of sweet Texas onions… the cooks at the Mansion at Judges’ Hill slice them to shoestring dimensions, then batter and deep-fry them. The resulting “ringlets” are crispy and savory, with house-made ketchup and another smoky-spicy sauce for dipping. And during the bar’s half-price happy hour, they’re also a steal at only $2.50!